London Furs In Fashion From London England

By Li-mei Hoang

(Reuters) –

In Fashion

Fur and feathers in fashion, ruled the runway at London Fashion Week for autumn/winter 2013, liberally applied to cuffs and collars, hemlines and hoods to jazz up otherwise simple styles.

American designer Tom Ford pieced together heavy coats from snippets of dyed fur and long, mane-like bristles traced the spine and neckline of a sequined zebra print evening dress.

Eagle plumes topped the wide-brimmed hats of Issa London, while fur and feathers also adorned the block color coats and dresses of PPQ.

Clean, simple palettes of jet black, charcoal greys, creamy vanillas, and midnight blues paraded at Temperley London, Bora Aksu, and Zoe Jordan. At the same time, warm autumnal tones of caramel, ochre, brown-red and deep plums radiated at Issa London, Matthew Williamson, and Holly Fulton.

“There seems to be a real effortless simplicity around, very unfussy, unstructured easy chic going on, and the palettes are fresh – there are blacks and creams with a little bit of soft pink,” said Brix Smith-Start, stylist and TV presenter.

Global Furs

Although global growth worries still hover over the luxury market, designers focused on silks and other luxury fabrics to tempt consumers back into stores.

With buyers from 39 different countries attending, the British Fashion Council estimates orders of more than 100 million pounds are placed during London Fashion Week each season.

Designers also fused fur, wool, and leather, layering cotton with translucent rubber at Burberry, felt wool mixed with lace at Christopher Raeburn and feathers with sheer silks at Christopher Kane.

“It’s all about fabric and texture for next fall, with experimental surfaces and techniques like glazed knits, fused (not sewn) seams, and bonded fabrics, like leather bonded to neoprene,” said Sharon Graubard, fashion director of forecasting agency Stylesight.

“Luxury will pervade all, with furs, dense woolens, cashmeres, leathers — everything will be cozy and appealing to the touch,”

SEQUINS

Embellishment also looks set to become a key trend, with designers like Erdem, Julien Macdonald, and Peter Pilotto all adding a variety of floral applique and jeweled sequins to their collections.

Hemlines headed lower, with full flared skirts at Vivienne Westwood, Jonathan Saunders, Eudon Choi, and Topshop’s Unique label, paired with cropped sweaters and loose billowing shirts to create elegant and ladylike silhouettes.

“There has been a lot more demure clothing on the runways . Hemlines are slightly lower, the clothes are whispering, they’re not screaming,” said Sasha Wilkins, founder of fashion and lifestyle blog LibertyLondonGirl.

Androgynous tailoring seen at Paul Smith, Nicole Farhi, and Richard Nicoll with silk printed shirts, colorful patterned tunics, and tailored blazers and coats.

“I think next autumn/winter will be all about the coat. The ‘it’ coat has replaced the ‘it’ bag. It might be a big, boxy coat, a fabulous fur, a reshaped down jacket, or a new take on the duffel coat or the trench,” said Graubard.

As London Fashion Week draws to a close, all eyes will turn towards Milan as the next event on the calendar on Wednesday before the finale of the Paris season.

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Fur in comeback among followers of fashion with chic new styles

Zhang Di, a 27-year-old policewoman, based in Heilongjiang, received her first wedding gift last month. Instead of a traditional present such as a gold jewelry piece, she was given a white, knee-length mink fur coat by her husband.

“Furs are a must-have for girls in Northeast China. It’s like Barbie or a luxury handbag in the United States. Wearing fur is a fantastic way to stay active and chic,” smiled Zhang.

Zhang and her husband are not wealthy enough to splash out the 20,000 yuan ($3,210) the coat cost regularly, but Zhang was pleased about this occasional show of extravagance.

“I need it to fight against the bitter winter here, which can reach minus 30 to minus 40 degrees Celsius,” said Zhang. “Also, wearing fur signals wealth, so it tells everyone I have a good life.”

“It’s not just women. Young men also like fur,” said Hu Bin, from Changchun, capital city of Northeast China’s Jilin province. “Look at the men wearing fur on the streets. Although most of them look like bears, they still love to show off. ”
As a result of the country’s rising demand, the level of fur production in Northeast China has been increasing steadily by 10 percent a year since 2004, industry experts said.

According to the International Fur Trade Federation, since 2011, China has become the world’s most significant fur production and consumption market. Last year, global fur sales reached a record high of $15 billion worldwide, from $14 billion in 2011.
The Chinese mainland, Hong Kong and South Korea are showing particularly significant gains, while in Europe and North America, turnover increased as pelt prices at auction reached record highs. Fur sales in Asia hit $5.3 billion, a year-on-year increase of 10 percent, which reflected a general trend in the luxury goods sector, said the London-based fur trade federation.

“China’s swelling fur demand is not only for expensive fur garments but also for trims on wool sweaters or cuffs on leather gloves,” said Mike Oaten, chief executive officer of the federation.

“During the week-long Spring Festival shopping spree, which fell on Jan 9, sales of furs up 30 percent,” said Zheng Zi, a fur garment seller in Zhejiang province. Her store provided a significant discount of 50 percent or even 80 percent off, but Zheng said expensive fur coats, which generally cost more than 20,000 yuan, are still affordable for most customers.

Industry experts said around ten years ago, most buyers in China were from neighboring Russia, where many people bulk up against the freezing winter by wearing fur. Now the number of Chinese fur lovers is significantly increasing.
“The fashion is leading the market. The combination of new techniques with trim and light fur and use of color is trendy on the catwalks. It has come together to create a real excitement in the market,” Oaten said.

In recent years, designers in New York, Milan, and London have increased their designs in fur, bringing it back into fashion.
Oaten added China has a different taste profile for fur. An increasing number of Chinese customers are fond of lighter colors and chic designs. Westerners tend to prefer brown or black with a classic design.

“People have developed a voracious appetite for the fur of all kinds, including mink, fox, rabbit, and raccoon,” said Zheng, a fur garment seller in Zhejiang province.
“In terms of color and style, pink, green, and white are very popular. Young customers tend to buy slim cuts rather than the old loose style,” Zheng added.

Zheng said even though sales have been increasing over the past years. People’s living standards have improved, the cost of fur has also risen because of the rising cost of the raw material and labor.
“The price of fur clothing kept climbing over the past several years with a year-on-year growth rate of 20 percent at least,” said Spark Fang, marketing executive of Saga furs, a Finland auction house.

Despite the rising cost and shrinking profit, Zheng is still optimistic about his business’s future outlook.
“Most buyers are white-collar workers. They want to own a piece for special occasions. I think their numbers will be expanding,” said Zheng.
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In January, the 39th China Fur and Leather Products Fair held in Beijing. It attracted several European and American wholesalers looking for better commercial fashion garments and accessories. More than 300 fur companies attended the fair and filled the main exhibition halls.
“The mild winter and slow economy affected the sales of mink and other luxury London furs in Europe and North America. Sales in China have been growing, both for fur garments and fur accessories,” garment seller Zhao from Nanjing.

“There is no more dynamic, growing, exciting and successful country than China,” said Oaten. “Owing to rising incomes and urbanization, fur consumption in 250 Chinese second-tier cities will be strong in the next ten years.”

According to the China Leather Association, the Chinese bought 1.5 million fur coats in 2010, out of the 2.5 million sold worldwide. The country’s market for pelts expected to be worth 16.42 billion yuan by 2015.

“In the current economic climate, these figures are stunning,” said Oaten. “They show designers and customers are continuing their love affair with this beautiful, durable, and natural product. I am confident a stronger growth next year because prices at the most recent auctions are hitting record highs. Manufacturers prepared to pay a premium for quality because they invest in luxury for the long term.”

London furs are showing up all over the streets of Great Britain.

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